The Fishing Olympics

The calm town of Argungu comes into national focus in late February through early March as the much anticipated Fishing Festival opens. As usual, tens of thousands of local fishermen (and between 600 and 1000 visiting fishermen) will compete for the biggest catch in the Rima Riva (local name: Mala'a Ruwa Argungu), with several thousands tourists looking on in fascination.

History records that back in the days, the Fulani of the defunct Sokoto caliphate and the Kabawa engaged in a series of wars, culminating thereafter in a series of breached treaties. During one such peace initiatives, Sultan Atahiruthe then Sultan of Sokoto, paid a friendly visit to Argungu. In appreciation, the host, Emir of Argungu treated the visitor and his entourage to a mini fishing fiesta. It evolved into more ceremonial nature in the 1930s during the reign of Sultan Hassan Muazu.

Argungu is just 50 kilometres northeast by road from the windy and dusty Birnin Kebbi, capital of Kebbi State in Northwest Nigeria. Tall, slender Dogonyaro trees line most of the way, as it is the case in neighbouring Sokoto State. The Kabawa (as the locals are known) are descended from the famed warrior named Kanta (there is a splendid museum, housed in a former palace of earlier Emirs, in Argungu named after him), once the commander of the Shongai Empire. The area has been ruled by kings since the early sixteenth century, the first being Muhammadu Kanta (1515-1561).

Traditionally, the men go fishing and farming in the mornings, while the womenfolk care for the children and prepare the meals, which they take to their husbands on the site. Sometimes, the male children accompany their dads; the daughters learn domestic chores at home.

“The women here aren't allowed to come out as such. They sell firewood, plates or wrapper in their Kule (an enclosure in the home),” says Delta State's Joy, a food vendor in the area.

While the fishing competition is the high point of the festival, other less well publicized events are worth the tourist's while. The inter-State (and inter-local government) Archery, goat skinning and catapulting contests is as much fun to watch as are the Kabanchi display, two-man canoe racing, blindfold swimming and wild-duck chasing on water. If things still remain as they were at the 2005 edition, look out for the amazing Gurumi singers. The rough and bloody Dambe (local) boxing is more for those in search of extra-curricular fun.

The spectacle that is the Argungu festival is beyond describing. Anyone going there has to prepare for the experience. “I used up all of 27 rolls of film,” one international photojournalist said, a Hasselblad and a Nokia N80 hanging from his neck. His partner lugged three cameras about, including a Minolta 7000E and the medium format Mamiya C330. This only goes to prove that the fishing festival must rank as one of Nigeria's best travel event.

All said Argungu is no destination for the solo traveller. To experience the best of the place, endeavour to go with someone or travel with a group; because after all the days' activities are done with, you'll want to kill time. And what better way to do so than with people who share your interests. As one foreign visitor observed, “this town has no clubs, no cinemas and no theatres.”