Adventures in Tin City (1)

Sat 24 Feb, 2001:

I step out of the Ekwos luxury bus onto Plateau soil (Farin Gada park specifically) a couple of minutes before 7 am, having departed from Lagos the night previous. It is freezing cold and am wearing a light short-sleeve shirt, so I walk up to a mai shai, where I down a hot cup of tea. It feels good to be back in this city. From the Polo Junction, a cab takes me down to Zaria Road, near St. Murumba Secondary School. I walk across the road to a bungalow building in Rock Haven, where in 1998 I had stayed for a couple of months as a member of the Nigerian Christian Corpers Fellowship (NCCF). After a few minutes of rest, I step out to go visit familiar places: the Plateau State Library (Tafawa Balewa Rd.), UBA (Bank Road), Nigeria Alternative Trade Network, the Jos National Museum/ Zoological garden (both on Museum Road). I couldn't help but go to a canteen I used to frequent on Adebayo Street, where I taste again the sumptuous combination of Amala, Gbegiri and Ewedu soup. I pay an old friend a visit at the Saje Mallam area and later go to book a room at the ECWA Guest House (near the Challenge bookshop), where I retire at about 9.00 pm.

Sun 25 Feb.:

I wake up at 3.00 am to browse some publications about the Plateau and some print outs on the subject of photography. I am in Jos to research the city and its tourism potentials with the intention to become a tour operator, bringing tourists into J-Town and letting them see the various treasures that abound. I am back on the bed two hours later. It's still rather cold but thank God for the thick blankets. I take breakfast (four slices of in-house baked bread, fried eggs, coffee, tea and milk) at the guest house's expansive dining area. Everything cost 100 naira. Shortly afterwards, I go on an inspection tour of three hotelsNana Country Home Hotel, Plateau Hotel (Club Road) and the Hill Station Hotel (at the famous Hill Station junction). At about 1.00 pm I head to Naraguta Avenue (GRA) to greet Mr Godwin Goyang, director of Tourism at the State's Ministry of Culture and Tourism. We discuss, as we always do, extensively on tourism and my intentions on this particular visit. He refreshes my memory on certain issues and gives me a thorough brief on the intricacies of tour operating and planning. Later on in the evening, I read Ten Great Tips for travelers and some other articles in Conde Nast Traveller (May 1997 issue).

Mon 26 Feb.:

I transfer my luggage to the COCIN (Church of Christ in Nigeria) Guest House (Noad Avenue), which rooms are kind of cheaper (at 200 naira/bed space) compared to ECWA's. I call at the premises of the Plateau State Ministry of Tourism, where Mr Goyang works as the Director of Tourism, to discuss my project further. I also meet and hold talks with Mr Danbaba ( Dep. Director), Mr Joseph (Tourism Officer), and one other staff. Later, someone leads me upstairs to the office of the Honourable Commissioner, Alhaja (Mrs) Fati Kyari, where I also spell out my reasons for coming to Jos again after I left some two years previous. Quite expectedly, she applauds my ambition and courage. To make my mission official, I am advised to draft two letters, one to the Commissioner and the other to the General Manager of the Plateau State Tourism Corporation (PSTC) on Yakubu Gowon Way, which I do without delay.

Tue 27 Feb.:

Today also begins with a meeting with Mr Goyang and an elderly photographer who, I am told, holds a rich collection of images of the Plateau, having been photographing the state for years now. Not much else happens afterwards, except that I called Tona (my younger brother) to brief him on the situation so far.

Wed. 28 Feb.:

My first port of call today is the Alternative Trade Network of Nigeria, a moderate-sized bungalow located just at the head of Museum Road, off bank Road. ATNN is an affiliate of a global concern which operates on the principle of Fair Trade. The idea of it that local crafts producers get duly rewarded for their sweat by cutting out the role of middlemen. So ATNN stocks a variety of handcrafts produced and supplied by the artisans themselves. I meet Mr Shemshak Gompil, the head of the place, who fixes an appointment with me for four in the evening. Leaving there, I take one of the letters to the General Manager of the Plateau State Tourism Corporation but could only discuss my mission with the secretary, who says to come back tomorrow. I check out Coomex Int'l hotel, Mountains Green (to access the state of their facilities) and Nana Country Home Hotel (to get a copy of its room tariffs). I go back again to the PSTC where I have a chat with a Mr Groupie on sundry issues, including the State's Cultural Calendar.

Thur 1 Mar.:

I am up early this morning to keep an eight o' clock appointment with Mr Gompil. Quite a revealing discussion; lasts 30 minutes. At 10 am I board a taxi to the PSTC. Another meeting
with the Secretary, who asks me to check again later in the day, when, perhaps, my letter would have been treated by the GM. I did go back there but met him (again) and the Assistant General Manager (Marketing), Mr John Doy. At the meeting, I suggest that Plateau State be promoted in some of the colourful publications in Lagos. I would compose the advert copies but it's going to require a bit of spending. I am told what the Corporation may be able to offer by way of support; before I leave I am handed two copies of a glossy promotional brochure on Plateau State to pursue my plans in Lagos. In between these meetings, I return to the Ministry of Tourism and Culture and then went to access facilities at Gabdoff Guest House, Metro Guest House and Mountains View (exclusive lodging for Expatriate missionaries).

Fri 2 Mar.:

I honour an invitation to meet with the current Excos and members of the NYSC Tourism club inside the Katsina building of the Museum of Modern Nigerian Architecture (MOTNA), itself a part of the bigger Jos National Museum. It was such a pleasant feeling to see something I started back in 1998 as a Community Development group (under the NYSC) still surviving three generations or so later. After a photo session with the club's executives, I head for the Ministry to feed Mr Goyang back and also collect a letter prepared for my use titled “To whom It May Concern”. That would be my passport to any corner of Jos and surroundings, while I pursue my research interests. Before I retire to my room I dash off to Liberty Boulevard (Off Murtala Mohammed Way) to say 'hello' to Deola one of my mates during the NYSC, who got retained by the Nigeria Film Corporation.

Sat 3 Mar.:

Between 10 and 11 this morning I busy myself reading copies of the Nigeria Standard, the State-owned newspaper, at the State library on Tafawa Balewa rd. By the time I get back to the guest house, Deola was waiting and together we move my stuff to his room on Dawaki Close, Tudun Wada. He feels I ought not to spend so much on accommodation when I could easily share his room. Not that I have much to spend really; but I had no other choice. We both spend the most part of the day shopping at the Jos Main Market, the dominant landmark in the city centre, Terminus. Not much happened afterwards, except that Deola did the cooking while I slept.

Mon 5 Mar.:

Sallah Holiday; am home all day, resting all the while. I spend time reading a hundred-plus pages of “Teach Yourself Copy Writing” by Broamly.

Tue 6 March:

I go to the University of Josthe departments of Geology and Geography. Met with the HOD, Geology. I would later enter the institution's library, brandishing the “to whom it may concern” letter for access. Not much material to consult. So after some three hours, I return to Terminus and take a bike to the Museum library. Here I stumble on a number of relevant literatures.

Wed 7 March:

Spent a couple of hours at the Nigeria Film Corporation chatting with Gloria Ogunyemi, the NYSC Tourism CD group president who incidentally is serving there. By 3 pm I take a cab to the Theological College of Northern Nigeria (TCNN) to see Dr. Mark Hopkins. I understand he is a keen birdwatcher and my intention is to learn if the prospect for this activity is high on the Plateau. A motorcycle drops me off near the TCNN library, from where I ask for the way to Dr. Hopkins' apartment. I meet the wife who says he'd traveled; she fixes an appointment on his behalf for Tuesday at 2pm.

Thur 8 March:

At about 3 pm Mr David Sherdung (of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism) and I set out to Fobur village. Since I am on a discovery mission to the Jos plateau, we figure that I must experience aspects of the natives' lifestyle. On reaching the village, we tour the local market, the day being a Market day. Mr Luka Magaji, a retired director of the Plateau State Ministry of Industry and Commerce, is to host us. He takes Sherdung and I to visit the Acting district head, some rock outcrops at Furaka, then to the homestead of a lower chief.

Fri 9 March:

Trek about 50 minutes to and fro to see an elderly blacksmith at work at Nukes. With not much else to do, I sleep for most part of the day. The pre-planned arrangement to go see a basket weaver at work failed because there was no Achaba or bus. At dusk, Mr Magaji takes us to a nearby household so I can appreciate some intricate aspects of the people's culture.

Sat 10 March:

I leave Fobur for Jos at about 8.15 am. Earlier, a native demonstrated how fire was kindled in the olden days by striking iron against a stone on which wool is placed. Later in the day, I attend a naming ceremony with Deola at Dadin Kowa.

Sun 11 March:

Attended church service at RCCG (Rex Cinema). The message: “Living a life of Fulfillment”. Afterwards, Deola, Sumbo and I went to Jane's and Scott's. I left at about 5 pm to Mr Goyang's. As usual, we discuss tourism and related subjects. We discuss my visit to fobur, my discoveries, the possibility of starting column in the Standard, visiting NESCO and so on.